Services (everything that we DO and SELL) – professional leather-related services.
Services (everything that we DO and SELL) – professional leather-related services.
Edward H Bohlin
essential if you wish to protect your leather investment. Leather needs correct care and on-going maintenance.
“Before” and “After” photos of a recent leather project at our shop
For many years Oakbrand has made leather clothing from chaps to vests to coats and buckskin clothing with traditional hand stitch or by machine stitch.
Other leather clothing includes:
Traditional Indian dresses (women/girls)
Traditional Indian dress (men/boys)
John Wayne Shirts
Mountain Man 2-pc Outfits
Renaissance Enactment Garments (ALL)
Bathing suit apparel
Dresses (ladies/ girls)
Skirts (ladies/ girls)
Legging (known as Gators)
So if it’s clothing you are in need of or a design created just Email me at email@example.com.;
First class leather seats for our first-class customers
Boating (Marine) leather seats restored for your sea-faring pleasure.
We show the most popular here but there are many more we don’t list.
Of course we can’t list every possible style of chaps since some are very specialized. For example bull-riding chaps are also available as well as the other multitude of chaps styles like ferrier chaps ( also called horseshoeing chaps), kids chaps, etc.
The type of chaps that you need will depend on the riding you do, the elements that you may be riding in as well as your special needs.. If you are competing in an event, you may need a unique type of chap. The information here will help you to decide which style of chaps would best fit your needs. Once you decide, let us know how we may serve you best.
[dt_button size=”big” animation=”none” icon=”fa fa-thumbs-up” icon_align=”left” color=”” link=”https://oakbrandleather.com/category/products/custom-leathers-western-clothing/” target_blank=”true”]See more custom leathers and western clothing[/dt_button]
[dt_button size=”big” animation=”none” icon=”fa fa-thumbs-o-up” icon_align=”left” color=”” link=”https://oakbrandleather.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15&zenid=6a913bfa3b4bc658a5287c4b8b69fba6″ target_blank=”true”]See custom leather belts at our store[/dt_button]
|The batwing chap is a full length pleasure or work chap which normally secures to the upper leg with buckles and straps. They can be made with, or without fringe. It is an “open” design which allows air circulation. This chap offers full length protection from trees, brush, and other elements. It is a good choice for those who want a cooler, less restrictive, full length western chap.|
Chap leather choices: Some western batwing for sale on this site might be labeled with colors such as “buckskin”, mahogany, “light grey” and so on…., these specifically labeled chaps will look exactly like the batwing chaps shown in the individual product photos because they are made with standard colors and leathers that we have in stock, usually at all times.
All cowboy batwing chaps for sale that are labeled as “earth-tone” are made with an always changing variety of “earth-tone” colored leathers, normally in the 4.5 to 6 ounce weight range. Our inventory of “earth-tone” leather is rotating all the time and different leathers are always coming in. We buy these leathers in different colors (normally in the light to dark brown range), different textures, and temper. Therefore, the western batwing chaps in inventory will be always changing in leathers and colors. They will most likely not be the same as the cowboy batwing chaps for sale in the photos. We show only one photo of each style because it would be very unproductive to try to take photos of every pair that we provide.
|The chinks are normally about a 3/4 length chap but can be almost full length depending upon the preference of the rider. They are a good pleasure or work chap which normally secures to the upper leg with buckles and straps. It is an “open” design which allows the best circulation of air. It is the most versatile chap and offers good upper leg protection from trees, brush, and other elements while offering less bulk, and less restriction to movement. Chinks are the best selling and most popular chap.|
|The cutting chap is a full length chap which normally secures to the upper leg with buckles and straps, they also normally have fringe. It is very similar to a batwing chap except that it has a “dropped heel” which is designed to cover the rider’s boot heel and spurs. This allows the rider to “cue” the horse with spur or heel movements without those “cues” being seen by spectators or judges. This type of chap is not normally worn for pleasure riding because the “dropped heal” drags the ground when walking|
|The rodeo chap is a standard item in the “roughstock” events of rodeo. It is a specially cut batwing chap that is designed to “flap” to accentuate the movements of the rider and make the riders movements look more dramatic to the spectators and judges.|
|The shotgun chap is a full length pleasure or work chap with a full length zipper closure (similar to a motorcycle chap). It offers the most protection from the elements but is also the most restrictive and has the least air circulation because of it’s “closed leg” design. This chap is normally worn in colder weather but can be used all year.|
|The “show chap” or “equestrian chap” is a full length chap with a zipper closure. It is very similar to the shotgun chap with the exception that it is made with a “dropped heel” like the cutting chap to conceal the riders spurs and heel. They also normally have a longer fringe – our standard fringe length for a show chap is 8″. This type of chap is not normally worn for pleasure riding because the dropped heal drags on the ground when walking.|
|The schooling chap is a full length chap used for English style riding. It is basically a shotgun chap that is normally tapered more and normally tighter fitting than a western style shotgun chap.|
|The motorcycle chap is a full length chap with a zipper closure and snaps at the base of the leg. It is basically a biker style version of a shotgun chap with the exception that it has snaps at the base of the leg. The snaps keep the zipper from un-zipping that is caused by the base of the chap leg “flapping in the wind” during riding.|
We are a custom saddlery and tack shop. This means that all of our products and services are custom-tailored to fit our customers’ needs – that’s you! So when you order custom chaps from Oak Brand Leather, you get chaps that fit your width, your height, your style, your budget, your colors and (most importantly) – your needs!
We have designed for the major players in the leather industry (including, but not limited to):
M.L. Leddy’s, Martin Saddlery, Equibrand, Teskey’s, and many more! See a larger list here.
All of our chaps are made right here in the good ‘ole USA, at our shop in Las Vegas, Nevada. They are built with quality USA tanned leather and made with heavy duty USA-made zippers. They are ready to ship in all sizes from X-small through X-large.
Ordering and contact information
If you have questions, please email us or phone us.
Call our shop phone: (405) 379-8080 – Monday through Friday, 9:00am-5:00pm (CST)
Call us during off hours: (702) 521-9930 – all other times
Shop hours of operation and location
Monday through Friday, 9:00am-5:00pm (CST)
401 S. Burns, Holdenville, OK 74848 United States
While this is not mean to be an all-inclusive list of our tooling designs we offer, it will server only as a small sample of the patterns we may offer you. Of course we have many more available upon your special request.
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Yes, we do custom motorcycle seats and trunks for your Indian, Harley or other bikes.
This custom-built Indian trunk has a reinforced oak frame, hard rubber and leather inner liner.
Our trunk is grain leather, includes Indian conchos, and also features 1-1/2″ nylon strapping with chrome clip snaps.
Orders are all custom
Please include your phone number when you contact us, in case we need to contact you.
Consignment Sales Agreement
Below is our OBL sales agreement for our consignment shop.
This form will require a PayPal payment of $1.00(USD) to complete registration. This process will be automatic. Once you have completed the form, you will be sent to PayPal to finalize the transaction.
Simply fill out your name, use your state-issued ID or your driver’s license # for your Consignor ID #, include # of articles you’re going to give us, include # of days you wish us to store them for you, and attach any supporting documentation you may wish us to have. (i.e. Photos may be nice thing to add here, for your supporting documentation, if you wish us to post this item on our web site.)
Oak Brand Leather will be happy to offer our consignors a 30 % commission on items sold.
We will accept up to 3 items per drop off (additional items may be accepted at the discretion of management).
Prices for items accepted shall be set by management and are subject to change.
Consignors may use their profit as store credit at any time. If you would prefer cash, money will be available after the 15th of the month for the previous month’s sales. You may come in and pick up your profit at any time on or after the 15th of the month. Please email us to check your balances.
“No Thank You” items must be retrieved within 7 days of notification or they will be donated to charity.
Don’t forget to initial your choice to either donate your articles or pick them up if we don”t sell them for you.
Unsold items past 90 days must be retrieved within 7 days of notification or they will be donated to charity.
Out of season and overstocked items are subject to clearance sales and/or adjustments according to market demand. I understand that Oak Brand Leather assumes no responsibility for loss or damage to consigned merchandise by fire, theft, accident, natural disaster, or any other cause.
Notice date and time are filled in automatically in following form – you need not change this.
[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]”Before” and “After” photos of a recent leather restoration project at our shop – client’s leather sofa.
Send us your own “Before” and “After” remarkable leather transformations – go here.
|Company:||Oak Brand Leather, Inc.|
|Your Web Site (URL):||https://oakbrandleather.com|
|Date photos were taken:||Feb 04, 2014|
|Comments here:||Client’s leather couch – full restoration.|
|Date Created||15 Mar 2014 – 09:53:07 AM|
Coloring of the leather is required sometimes to make letters, brands, background or tooling stand out.
(See Photo below)
Also on leather with color applied to surface with acrylics or as in a vat (by a large container) where leather is tanned & colored. You can mix colors to touch up blemishes where color and grain have been damaged in small areas such as scuffed Ostrich or even Gator.
There are many other areas which complete recoloring also can be done when leather is cleaned properly. You can then air brush color on to say…….match metal flake color on a motorcycle, gas tank, or where your saddle bags need to match perfectly and with an air brush it is possible. Then there is shading, toning, antiquing, blending, and using acrylics to color for example a tooled flower. Then oil or alcohol-based colors are used to shade the petals which bleeds in lighter to the center of the tooled flower. It’s rather beautiful. This is a technique which is stunning at the least. But don’t get me wrong, the brush still dyes background in tooling quite well.
Types of Dyeing Techniques:
So we have decided to create this article for your benefit. We know leather and we know the industry.
We are true leather craftsmen and have been providing quality leather products and services since 1969.
How to Clean Your Leather Saddle by Oak Brand Leather. 1
Gather Your Equipment. 2
Leather Cleaning Kits. 2
Strip The Saddle. 3
Saddle Soap. 3
Clean the Leather. 4
Clean Off Any Residual Soap. 4
Apply Leather Conditioner. 5
Clean Metal Fittings and Stirrup Leathers. 6
Brush Up Suede or Rough-Out Leathers. 7
Brush the suede or rough-out portions of your saddle with a stiff brush. 7
Traditional wisdom says we should clean our saddles every time we use them, but that may not be practical. How often you clean your saddle may
depend on how it is used and how frequently it is used. If you only use your saddles on weekends for leisurely pleasure rides you might
not need to clean your saddle as frequently as someone who participates in a sport where the saddle is exposed to sweat, mud and dirt on a regular basis.
It makes sense to clean them before storing, before a competition, or before selling one.
(And if your stored saddle has sprouted mold, don’t worry. Just follow the steps below.) Gather all your cleaning equipment. You’ll need:
· Mild saddle soap (glycerin)
Non-detergent leather conditioner
· Small sponge
· Toweling (3 to 4)
· Small bucket or bowl of water (not hot)
· Stiff bristle or wire brush (optional)
· Cotton swabs
· Metal cleaner
If you need to obtain the entire kits we can also help with that.
Leather cleaning kit #1
Leather cleaning kit #2
Leather cleaning kit #3
Leather cleaning kit #4
Strip the saddle of all fittings and undo any buckles. Wipe the saddle down with slightly dampened toweling to
remove any loose dust, dirt and hair.
Dampen the sponge in the water. You’ll want it damp but not dripping wet. Dip it in the saddle soap and work up a lather.
All-in-one cleaners that promise to clean and condition in one step may not be good for leather.
Some contain detergents that over time can damage the leather.
Apply the lather to the leather. Frequently rinse and re-lather the sponge. Work in small circles covering all surfaces of the saddle; top,
underside, and between flaps. Do not apply soap or water to suede or rough-out leathers often found on seats or knee rolls.
Wipe the saddle with a damp towel and then a dry towel. You’ll want to remove any residual soap from the leather as soap left behind may damage the
leather over time. Some saddlers recommend using only a damp cloth and no soap.
Residual soap left in crevices and folds will also hold grit that can eat away at the leather.
Use dampened cotton swabs or the corner of a towel to get all soap out of tiny stitching channels and crevices.
Wipe the saddle dry. The next step is conditioning and they work best on leather that are a tad damp.
Apply our own professional Oak Brand Leather Conditioner. Apply the oil very sparingly. You don’t want to clog the pores or give dirt a
place to cling to. Too much oil can soak through the leather into the padding or tree underneath and cause damage.
Remember if you apply too much oil it’s almost impossible to get out quickly. You may have to wait for months as it gradually oozes out onto your clothes.
Wipe down all metal fittings and remove any residual soap or conditioner that may have gathered on them.
Follow the same steps of applying soap and conditioner to clean the stirrup leathers.
Metal cleaner can be used on stirrups but they can also be cleaned with regular dish soap and water. Rinse well. Use caution if you clean
the metal fittings on the saddle with metal cleaner that it doesn’t get into the leather.
Very occasionally you may want to make suede or rough-out seats or knee rolls look nice. Use a stiff bristle brush to brush up the nap.
Do this very infrequently as too much brushing will wear through the suede and you’ll end up holes.
You may want to do this step only if you’re trying to make the saddle look extra good for a special show or to sell.
Thanks for choosing Oak Brand Leather for all of your custom leather needs.
I do teach saddle making, saddle repair, saddle designing, silver design, layout patterns, All Styles, Horns, Ground work, and Configurations. For example, keep these areas in mind when you build a West Coast Cutter that there are standards on how the connectors attach even the groundwork. This holds true in 80% of these names: Ropers, Cutters, Ranch Cutters, Sorters, Barrel Racers and Reiners as in a Lomis or Lawson. There are special Features also in the “Wade” or “Afork” drop Plate rigging such as powder River Style to just plan full (5/8) rigged all different combinations. This can mean a Specific Named Saddle designed plus look. My knowledge insures this and so much more.
In saddle design there are standards also for the Saddle to have a True Western look. There are measurements which if not adhered to ……..well, you have seen the bad results on that. I believe enough has been said.
Teaching Saddle Repair ……………
Now, if you want to be a true Saddle Maker and (sky’s the limit), this is where I say the foundation is built.
You will at least make a living while your years add up with knowledge; as well as paying your dues so to speak. I myself learned in the following order: Starting in 1967 to 1970:
1) Saddle Cleaning and Conditioning – (6 months)
2) Saddle repair (used) – (6 months)
3) Saddle making (custom) One year, 1970 to Present 3600 Hour Diploma,
4) Saddle designing (custom) since 1970 to Present,
5) Teaching, New, since 1987 to Present,
6) Manufacturing, New, Cut room Tech, and finishing since 1990,
7) Teaching Manufacturing (New) and designing Rule dyes
8) Since 1990 Tree making and designing, and building.
9) Then teaching since 2004 to present.
(But) a few whom I’ve known teaching leather . . .
|Ray (Shorty) Stiles||Voc-Tech||Oklahoma|
|Charles Veach||Saddle Store||Tulsa, Oklahoma|
|Billy Cook Saddlery||Voc-Tech||Sulphur, Oklahoma|
|Bill Robinson||Visala||Visala, California|
|Steve Schmit||M. L. Leddy||Fort Worth, Texas|
|Brad Foster||M. L. Leddy||Fort Worth, Texas|
|Brenda||M. L. Leddy||Fort Worth, Texas|
|Werner Steckelbruck||Triple Horn Saddlery|
and here we are.
All have had a hand in my style and technique. There have been other saddle makers though whom I worked and exchanged teaching styles and techniques that are not listed. And there were saddle makers whom over the years just came by my store and shop and wanted to show me their techniques they use on a saddle I would be building. This happened with a saddle maker from Australia which (darn) I hope he reads this and sends me his name and photos of those Birds in his back yard. He showed me those pictures of exotic birds and I can’t get them out of my mind. His saddle making was very nice, Cutters, too! I cannot tell you how much enjoyment I’ve received in my trade. It never gets boring. You must meet so many great folks and you get to work with history. When you are blessed to teach some day, then give it your all in teaching. You allow another to begin that learning cycle which never ends, “ Man or Woman………..teaching”. It keeps you sharp. Learning moves you forward, people make you smile.