All top-quality leather seat for your Harley Davidson. Indian or other bike.
The seat is shaved and is basket weaved.
Your name goes on rear. Please add the name, initials or phrase you wish to use.
Other geometrical tooling is available upon request. Designing is available on seat hood tapper (side of seat). Seat shown is kangaroo laced.
Please include your phone number in case we need to contact you.
Edward H Bohlin
essential if you wish to protect your leather investment. Leather needs correct care and on-going maintenance.
“Before” and “After” photos of a recent leather project at our shop
For many years Oakbrand has made leather clothing from chaps to vests to coats and buckskin clothing with traditional hand stitch or by machine stitch.
Other leather clothing includes:
Traditional Indian dresses (women/girls)
Traditional Indian dress (men/boys)
John Wayne Shirts
Mountain Man 2-pc Outfits
Renaissance Enactment Garments (ALL)
Bathing suit apparel
Dresses (ladies/ girls)
Skirts (ladies/ girls)
Legging (known as Gators)
So if it’s clothing you are in need of or a design created just Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.;
First class leather seats for our first-class customers
Boating (Marine) leather seats restored for your sea-faring pleasure.
Yes, we do custom motorcycle seats and trunks for your Indian, Harley or other bikes.
This custom-built Indian trunk has a reinforced oak frame, hard rubber and leather inner liner.
Our trunk is grain leather, includes Indian conchos, and also features 1-1/2″ nylon strapping with chrome clip snaps.
Orders are all custom
Please include your phone number when you contact us, in case we need to contact you.
Short tutorial which explains how to measure for custom quality leather dog collar and belt.
See the video below or go to YouTube to watch it.
“Before” and “After” photos of a leather restoration project at our shop – client’s completely restored saddle.
1. A lot of smoke is sent up here. There is a lot of bull told by a few saddle and tack stores across the country.
Yes, I am going to open a can of worms. Believe me, this can have a ton of opinions.I will use some terms here
which describe parts and areas on a saddle. See below Tree and Saddle Parts below. This is in reference with
measurements with Old Names, New Names and Standards.
2. Another view of saddle complete with labels and associated numbers. A good fitting saddle is absolutely
mandatory for the comfort of your horse. It improves the way your horse will work, making him more willing.
It won’t interfere with his natural movement and most importantly, it will evenly distribute the rider’s
weight. This will prevent saddle sores, rubs, trapped nerves, bad backs, lameness, evasions, and spinal diseases!
3. Place the saddle in the correct position.
Begin by removing any saddle cloth that the saddle usually sits on. Never fit a saddle on with anything underneath.
Tie your horse up on a flat surface. Begin by placing the saddle slightly up your horse’s neck. Gently slide it backwards,
so that the saddle fits directly behind the shoulder blade. On most horses, the shoulder blade feels like a large lump
underneath the wither area.
4. Determine the correct width.
the saddle from behind, or in front. You should clearly be able to see daylight through the gullet or
channel running through the saddle. There should be a clear distance of roughly 3-4 fingers when you
place your hand at the pommel area, which is the arch at the front of the saddle.
5. View the seat area. When viewed from the side, the seat area should be horizontal.
When viewed from the front, the saddle should fit snugly around the horse’s shoulders.
6. Determine the correct length. Sit on the prospective saddle. You should be able to fit one hand’s width behind the
pommel, the arch at the front and one hands width in front of the cantle, at the back of the saddle. If the saddle is too long, it may
cause pressure on the horses loins, causing a sore back. The saddle should not extend past the horse’s last rib. If it does, the saddle
places pressure on the horse’s internal organs.
7. Measure the saddle. With your measuring tape, measure from the center of the cantle,
at the back of the saddle to the point of tree at the front of the saddle. As a general rule, children’s saddles are under 16 inches and adults, 17 inches plus.
8. Try the saddle. Always try out a potentially correct saddle, by riding in it. Begin by doing up the girth straps firmly. The saddle should
not move excessively in walk, trot or canter. The saddle should always be in contact with the skin on your horses back.
It must feel comfortable for the rider but bear in mind that a saddle needs to be well worn, just like a pair of shoes, to mold to your horse’s back and to your bottom!
So, once you’ve chosen the correct saddle, stick with it!
Now that you have learned how to fit your saddle, you can continue the learning.
Q: How do you know you have a top quality saddle?
A: You compare and contrast the results from others’ saddles to our own OBL custom, quality saddles.
Next we will show what we’re looking for in our saddle inspection process.
Here at Oak Brand Leather we’re kind of one-note wonders. The song we’re always singing is “We carry high quality products.”
But you might be wondering what we mean by that. We’ve recently added two more American saddle manufacturers to our inventory.
Here is the inspection process our saddle experts go through to ensure that we’re only selling products that are top-of-the-line. If a company fails at any point,
we don’t carry the product.
1. Verify that all the materials are American
We do not sell imported saddles, nor do we sell saddles made from imported materials.
If a product is made or assembled primarily in America, we can make sure things are
done right. If materials are coming from somewhere else, we can’t be sure.
2. The leather should be genuine cowhide with choice cuts from the hide, not marred and scratched.
All leather is not created equal. Low quality leather can be scratched and marred the
first time you unpack your saddle from the box. Leather can also be made from cows
that have been frolicking around thorn bushes all their lives, resulting in a hide that i
s veined. The leather of a saddle should be top-quality that is smooth, yet thick and durable.
3. Tree should be a solid tree from a well-known manufacturer, if not a handmade tree.
Not all our manufacturers make their own trees. If they don’t,
we make sure their tree supplier is well-known, tried & tested.
4. Seating and skirting should be straight on tree – not askew.
5. Stitching should be inline. No unintentional zigzag.
A common place where low-quality saddles show their mistakes is in the stitching. It takes
skill to make all the stitching straight and to start and end the stitching correctly.
We make sure it’s not sloppily done.
6. Seat should sit tight on tree – no air pockets or bunching up.
Another area it takes skill to do well–the seat.
7. Finished leather should accept the dye. Not look as though it was painted on and can flake off.
Quality leather dyes well, but that too takes skill. Do it incorrectly, and the dye looks like a bad
paint job waiting to rub off on your pants.
8. Synthetic saddles should be made of Corduroy – not vinyl.
Vinyl can rip, tear, peel, and give under pressure. We don’t like vinyl.
Corduroy, on the other hand, is a high quality material suitable for saddles.
9. All hardware should be tight – shouldn’t have to worry about saddle falling apart.
There’s nothing worse than getting ready to mount your horse and wondering if the
rigging is going to hold. The saddle hardware should feel like it’s going to take a beating and not budge.
10. Company has to stand behind their product.
We know you expect us to stand behind our products. We expect the same of each of our manufacturers. Saddles should
be built to last–they’re not decorations. And when they’re made well, there’s no reason not to stand behind them. Most of
our manufacturers stand behind their products with warranties. We appreciate that and know you do too.
BTW, we offer a 100% FREE saddle inspection process!
Simply bring us your saddle and we will have our craftsmen inspect it your free of charge.
If we find some issue with the saddle we will give you a reasonable estimate to repair the imperfections. Request a FREE saddle inspection today!
So we have decided to create this article for your benefit. We know leather and we know the industry.
We are true leather craftsmen and have been providing quality leather products and services since 1969.
How to Clean Your Leather Saddle by Oak Brand Leather. 1
Gather Your Equipment. 2
Leather Cleaning Kits. 2
Strip The Saddle. 3
Saddle Soap. 3
Clean the Leather. 4
Clean Off Any Residual Soap. 4
Apply Leather Conditioner. 5
Clean Metal Fittings and Stirrup Leathers. 6
Brush Up Suede or Rough-Out Leathers. 7
Brush the suede or rough-out portions of your saddle with a stiff brush. 7
Traditional wisdom says we should clean our saddles every time we use them, but that may not be practical. How often you clean your saddle may
depend on how it is used and how frequently it is used. If you only use your saddles on weekends for leisurely pleasure rides you might
not need to clean your saddle as frequently as someone who participates in a sport where the saddle is exposed to sweat, mud and dirt on a regular basis.
It makes sense to clean them before storing, before a competition, or before selling one.
(And if your stored saddle has sprouted mold, don’t worry. Just follow the steps below.) Gather all your cleaning equipment. You’ll need:
· Mild saddle soap (glycerin)
Non-detergent leather conditioner
· Small sponge
· Toweling (3 to 4)
· Small bucket or bowl of water (not hot)
· Stiff bristle or wire brush (optional)
· Cotton swabs
· Metal cleaner
If you need to obtain the entire kits we can also help with that.
Leather cleaning kit #1
Leather cleaning kit #2
Leather cleaning kit #3
Leather cleaning kit #4
Strip the saddle of all fittings and undo any buckles. Wipe the saddle down with slightly dampened toweling to
remove any loose dust, dirt and hair.
Dampen the sponge in the water. You’ll want it damp but not dripping wet. Dip it in the saddle soap and work up a lather.
All-in-one cleaners that promise to clean and condition in one step may not be good for leather.
Some contain detergents that over time can damage the leather.
Apply the lather to the leather. Frequently rinse and re-lather the sponge. Work in small circles covering all surfaces of the saddle; top,
underside, and between flaps. Do not apply soap or water to suede or rough-out leathers often found on seats or knee rolls.
Wipe the saddle with a damp towel and then a dry towel. You’ll want to remove any residual soap from the leather as soap left behind may damage the
leather over time. Some saddlers recommend using only a damp cloth and no soap.
Residual soap left in crevices and folds will also hold grit that can eat away at the leather.
Use dampened cotton swabs or the corner of a towel to get all soap out of tiny stitching channels and crevices.
Wipe the saddle dry. The next step is conditioning and they work best on leather that are a tad damp.
Apply our own professional Oak Brand Leather Conditioner. Apply the oil very sparingly. You don’t want to clog the pores or give dirt a
place to cling to. Too much oil can soak through the leather into the padding or tree underneath and cause damage.
Remember if you apply too much oil it’s almost impossible to get out quickly. You may have to wait for months as it gradually oozes out onto your clothes.
Wipe down all metal fittings and remove any residual soap or conditioner that may have gathered on them.
Follow the same steps of applying soap and conditioner to clean the stirrup leathers.
Metal cleaner can be used on stirrups but they can also be cleaned with regular dish soap and water. Rinse well. Use caution if you clean
the metal fittings on the saddle with metal cleaner that it doesn’t get into the leather.
Very occasionally you may want to make suede or rough-out seats or knee rolls look nice. Use a stiff bristle brush to brush up the nap.
Do this very infrequently as too much brushing will wear through the suede and you’ll end up holes.
You may want to do this step only if you’re trying to make the saddle look extra good for a special show or to sell.
Thanks for choosing Oak Brand Leather for all of your custom leather needs.